Zamboanga and Tawi-Tawi: A Journey to the South
By A. Tan
Day 1: Zamboanga, The City of Flowers
Mindanao, most especially Zamboanga and Tawi-Tawi, is not a popular destination for domestic and foreign tourists. Because of chaos and other “not-so-good” news in some parts of Mindanao, the entire Island was affected, hence became an unpopular destination. Zamboanga City is the capital of Zamboanga Province, and Tawi-Tawi is an Island province of the Philippines located in the Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao (ARMM) in which will be replaced by the
Bangsamoro by 2016. Tawi-Tawi is an hour away from Zamboanga by plane and 5 hours away by boat to Sabah, Malaysia and a few hours away from
Turtle Island.
Our journey started by flying to Zamboanga City last August 24, 2013. Yes, it was 2 weeks before the
Zamboanga Siege orchestrated by Nur Misuari. And we were so lucky not to experience that chaos that contributed to the poor image of Mindanao.
We arrived in Zamboanga by 1:15 in the afternoon and had lunch at the office together with the
branch staff. Since we were still waiting for our other two companions, we went to the popular shopping place called “
Barter” to buy
pasalubong. Most of the products that they sell are from Malaysia. Since I forgot to bring slippers with me, I ended up purchasing one there.
After our short shopping spree, our Boss brought us to
Lantaka Hotel. They said that before Abu Sayyaf started terrorizing the region through kidnapping, Lantaka Hotel is one of the most popular places in the city of Zamboanga. Many international tourists stayed in this hotel. The port of the boat and vessels going to Basilan and other nearby places are located at the back of the said hotel. They even showed us the mountain that they now dubbed as “United Nations” since this mountain is where the terrorist group bring their victims, of all races and walks of life.
Unfortunately, the flight of our two companions was delayed for almost three hours so we just headed to
Paseo Del Mar, the popular park in Zamboanga City to grab something to eat and drank some ice cold beers while watching the sunset. Since, there was a curfew in place in the area, we just continued our never-ending-game of waiting for our two companions at
Kape Zambo, one of the coffee shops/bar that you will find in the city. They had local bands playing that night and also served my all time favorite “Cali”. Finally, our two companions arrived at around 9:00 in the evening and headed back to our hotel to rest in preparation for our early flight to Tawi-Tawi the following morning.
Day 2: A First Glance of Tawi-Tawi
Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airline only has one morning flight to Tawi-Tawi from Zamboanga City. Although other means of transportation to reach Tawi-Tawi is by Ferry from Zamboanga ports, it is not advisable due to security issues in the area. Seeing uniformed men with their long Rifles doing rounds within the airport premises are a normal sight in the area.
We arrived at
Sanga-Sanga airport by past 7:00 in the morning. We were fetched by Kuya Renel and friends. One of the most admirable traits that I notice when we were at the airport is the Tausug Men embracing and kissing each other on both cheeks. It is said that this is a sign of gratitude and friendship in their culture.
I must admit that I initially got scared visiting the area. However, when we started traveling and hearing stories about the place, I got easily relaxed and felt at home.
We stayed at
Almari Beach Resort with the majestic view of Bongao Peak (Bud Bongao) and the ocean with a perfect sunset view on the other side. After a short nap, we went to attend a ritual of a Tausug brother and sisters. I learned that the housewife prepared a feast to remember the 7th day from the day of the death of his husband, which was part of the tradition of our Muslim brothers in remembrance of their loved ones who recently passed away. They prepared different dishes and one of the best and unique delicacies that I tasted was “
Talimaitum” which was a bit similar to a “
beef papaitan”.
Riding in a private van, we roam around Tawi-Tawi. We visited the provincial capitol, the Mindanao State University Tawi-Tawi campus where we were warmly welcomed by their chancellor. We then visited the featured tree with a lot of bats living on it. We also went to the
Old Chinese Port or Pier, the first port used by Chinese, Arabs and Filipinos to trade during the Pre-Spanish period. After which, visited the public Market to buy food and other stuff needed for our three day stay in the province.
We ended the day by attending Catholic mass in the only Catholic Church in Tawi-Tawi. We rode a tricycle from the town back to the resort we were staying in to prepare for our seafood feast.
DAY 3: Bud Bongo and Simun’ul Island, Tawi-Tawi
Bud Bongao is one of the destinations in Tawi-tawi so we didn’t miss the chance to climb the sacred mountain. It took us an hour and 30 minutes to reach the summit and enjoyed the beautiful scenery of Tawi-Tawi.
After our majestic experience hiking the majestic
Bud Bongao or
Bongao Peak, we headed straight to the port to visit Simun’ul Island which houses the oldest mosque in the country. Using the speed boat together with our Military security and other friends, we headed to Simun’ul Island. After an hour we reached Simon’ UL Island, we were greeted by the local bystanders at the port of Simun’ul, the first thing that we saw are the stilt houses on the island. We went straight to visit the oldest mosque called “Sheik Makhdum”. It was built by Arab trader
Sheik Makhdum Karin in 1380 and it is the first introduction of Islam in the country. At the side of the mosque are the Muslim children who were learning Arabic language, because they believe that a real Muslim should know how to read the Koran in Arabic. We also visited the tomb of
Sheik Makhdum, the founder of Islam in the Philippines.
At Sheik Makhdum, First Mosque in the Philippines
And to experience the pristine islands of Tawi-tawi, we docked in one of the islands in the province and enjoyed its clear blue water, swimming and snorkeling in the seas of this wonderful province.
Snorkeling in the Clear blue waters of Tawi-Tawi
The last activity of the day was to attend the Muslim ritual of one of the son of our hosts, they prepared a table full of seafood, liquors and good company. We eventually went back to our hotel with a happy tummy.
Lobsters, sea mantis, squid, tuna and a lot more were served that night.
Last Day: Home Bound
We woke up early to prepare for our early flight back to Zamboanga City, with all the fresh seafood we could carry, and with such good memories of Tawi-Tawi. We made a promise to go back soon and try to visit Sabah or Turtle Island.
Since we still had time before our flight back to Manila, we went back to Barter to purchase additional pasalubong and tried the famous “
Satti” at Andy’s Satti. Satti is a beef or chicken on a stick dip in a curry sauce. A bit spicy, it is served with sticky rice. This food is unique to our Muslim brothers and sisters and they usually have this during breakfast.
How to Get to these Places and Some Additional Information
- Take advantage of Piso fares by Cebu Pacific if you are on a budget travel. Although Philippine Airline and Cebu Pacific have a regular trip to Zamboanga and tawi-tawi.
- There are available taxis and Jeepneys that goes around the city. But if you are on a budget, take advantage of jeepneys and tricycle. Zamoanga City is a small city, just ask someone from the area on how to get to places and they will surely give you directions. Although the people speaks “Chavacano”, majority of the population also speaks in Tagalog, as well as in English.
- The only transportation available in Tawi-Tawi is via tricycle. If you want to roam around the place, you can rent a van or rent a tricycle. Tawi-Tawi is a small town and the people there are accommodating. You just have to show your smile and they will gladly assist you.
- Please take note of the curfew in Tawi-Tawi. Establishments close as early as 6:00 in the evening so make sure to purchase all the supplies you need. It is not advisable to roam around the town at night because of some security issues.
- Catholic churches and chapels as well as other places of worship are present in Tawi-Tawi. Catholic churches holds 2 masses only. One in the morning and one in the afternoon.
- Visitors should be sensitive to the culture of the people, make sure that you wear appropriate attire at all times.
